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Camellia
Camellias are the undiscovered stars of the garden in winter and spring, with waxy blooms unfurling in pristine white and candy pink, through to sumptuous ruby red. But their blooms are only part of the bargain, the camellia's dark, glossy, evergreen leaves also provide an excellent display.
As long as they are planted in acid soil, camellias are not difficult to grow, and will even thrive in tricky semi-shaded areas, needing only minimal care once established. Most grow into large shrubs or small trees, but are extremely versatile and can be used as wall shrubs, hedges or superb container specimens.
For centuries, camellias have been popular in Japan and China, as can be seen on many of their works of art. Gardeners in Britain first grew these new plants in the early 18th century and by 1850, the camellia had become a prized ornamental shrub. Victorians loved the formality of the blooms and the elegant nature of the evergreen foliage. But, after the Victorian era, interest in camellias waned. Only in the 1950s did they become fashionable again, helped by the introduction of new varieties and species.
Other species of camellia
Camellias need shelter if they are to thrive. An area in dappled shade under trees is ideal, but they will tolerate a more open position if shaded for part of the day. A west-facing aspect is perfect as strong early morning sun on frosted flower buds can cause them to thaw too quickly and drop off. In very exposed gardens, camellias are best fan-trained on a west-facing wall.
Generally, they prefer neutral or acid soil, although camellias will tolerate slightly limey soil, if it is well drained and fertile. Prepare the soil before planting by adding leaf compost and manure.
Container cultivation is the answer for gardeners with chalky soils, since a bag of ericaceous compost will satisfy their needs for acidic growing conditions.
Although they will flower without regular pruning, camellias can outgrow their allotted space unless kept in check. This is best done after flowering but before new growth begins.
Deadheading should be done as the petals fade in order to tidy up the plant and prevent energy being wasted on setting seed. C. x williamsii varieties usually drop their flowers as they fade and do not require deadheading.
Watch Joe Swift's guide to planting camellias:
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Camellias can suffer from scale insects, which look like tiny brown limpets clinging on to the stems and underside of the leaves. In addition to sucking the sap, they secrete honeydew on the leaf surface that becomes colonised by black sooty mould. Protect from aphids by washing them off or use a chemical spray.
Yellow leaves are a common problem with camellias and usually indicate nutrient deficiency. The solution is to apply a balanced liquid fertiliser in spring and autumn.
A type of virus sometimes causes yellow mottling or almost white leaves. This usually occurs on just a few branches and so can be cut out. Annually applied mulch of compost or manure around the root area is beneficial, especially in sandy soils. Avoid spent-mushroom compost as it contains lime.
Camellias, whether in the ground or container, need careful watering in the summer months. A dry spell in summer is the most common cause of winter bud drop.
National Collections of Camellias
I Berry Mount Edgcumbe House & Country Park Cremyll Torpoint Cornwall, PL10 1HZ Tel: 01752 822236 (External) Website: www.mountedgcumbe.gov.uk Opening times: see website for details
The Carew Pole Garden Trust Antony House Antony House Torpoint Cornwall PL11 2QA Tel: 01752 812364 (External) Website: www.nationaltrust.org.uk Opening times: see website for details
Wentworth Castle Gardens Lowe Lane Stainborough Barnsley South Yorkshire S75 3ET Tel: 01226 731269 (External) Website: www.wentworthcastle.org Opening times: see website for details
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